Highlighting & Contouring

Highlighting & Contouring according to your face shape.

Just a quick recap on highlighting and contouring as per my previous blog post.  Highlighting and contouring basically means bringing forward sunken areas or areas you want to stand out using a lighter colour than your natural skin tone (highlighting) and pushing back features you want to make appear smaller/further away using a darker colour than your skin tone (contouring).  For instance bags under your eyes:  contour the actual baggy/saggy part of the skin with a darker colour to push it back, while highlighting the sunken/dipped skin to bring it forward using a lighter colour.  You can use cream or powders to contour or highlight. Creams are easier to blend and tend to look more natural. Avoid using bronzer to contour. You are creating a “shadow” so think of a colour that’s similar to an actual shadow, which tends to be a cooler tone. Use Bronzer to warm up your skin and make it look sun-kissed!

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(Image from: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRro7_UoQQrK_V7FtQIfbBONPu6Z-awZ33jqXnqtsxm2xyw2R2a)

ANATOMY OF THE SKIN

ANATOMY OF THE SKIN

Oval Face Shape

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Diamond Face Shape

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Square Face Shape

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Oblong Face Shape

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Round Face Shape

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Heart Shaped Face

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(Face shapes from Robert Jones, Looking Younger)

Corrective contouring make-up to ‘fix’ flaws
Through contouring & highlighting ‘facial flaws’ can be minimised or hidden.
  • Thick neck: shade the sides of the neck.  This will make the neck appear thinner.  Highlight the middle of the neck with a vertical line.  This will bring the “verticalness” forward and make the neck appear thinner.
  • Long Neck: shade the middle of the neck.
  • Saggy skin around the jawline/double chin: shade the extra/excess skin around and under the jaw. This will push it back and make it less noticeable.  A highlighter can be put on the jaw bone to bring it forward.
  • Pointy chin:  shade the pointiness and highlight the area where the thin is ‘supposed’ to start.
  • Large forehead & high hair line: shade along the hairline, and fade it out towards the brow.
  • Wide forehead: shade the temple sides where it’s too wide.
  • Narrow forehead: highlight the temple edges to bring out and appear more oval.
  • Sunken in/too high cheekbones: only highlight where the face looks sunken in.  No shading underneath the check bone.  This will push the ‘sunkenness’ back even further.
  • Short nose:  highlight on top, especially the tip of the nose.
  • Long nose:  shade the tip of the nose to appear shorter.
  • Nose with bump:  shade the bump.
  • Skew nose: shade the area that stands out (the skew part).  Highlight a straight line down the middle of the nose.  It is important not to follow the skew curve of the nose with the highlighter, as this will bring it forward and accentuate the ‘skewness’.
  • Fat nose:  Shade the sides, highlight the top of the nose.

Mascara 101

As part of my Ask Adele Anything Agony Aunt section, Elana asked on

“I need some advice on mascara. No matter which new brand I use, the mascara always clumps my eyelashes together. How do you achieve that beautiful lush and natural looking eyelashes without the clumps!? Any particular brand or method of applying?”

I have decided to dedicate a full post to Mascara. My need to know tips and tricks on how to achieve beautifully defined luscious lashes with your favourite mascara.

(Image from http://www.eyeko.com/files/images/Twiggy.jpg)

Women have always been obsessed with their appearance, especially their eyes. Although mascara and false eye lashes was used before the 1960′s, in my mind Twiggi has made over the top eye lashes super hot. Not only did she have exaggerated top lashes, but also exaggerated bottom lashes, known as the twiggies. To me, she has made it acceptable and fashionable to experiment and have fun with lashes.

To me mascara is one of the most important elements of makeup. It defines your eye, opens it up and makes your eyes appear more alive and youthful. I will never leave the house without mascara on. The saying “less is more” definitely do not apply to mascara.

(Image from http://www.oliviapalermo.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Dark-Eyelashes.jpg)

Mascara Knowhow

Mascara comes in various formulations, each giving a different result. Choose the formul that helps you achieve the look you want.

Mascara Formulations:

  • Thickening mascara coats each individual lash from root to tip with particles that add bulk to the lashes and help them appear thick and full. The idea is to increase each individual lash size.
  • Lengthening mascara contains plastic polymers that cling to the tips of the lashes, making them appear longer. These lengthening particles attach themselves to the end tips of your lasshes to add length.
  • Defining mascara coats each individual lash and keeps them separated and defined. This type of mascara usually does not contain bulk adding or lengthening particles. The formulation is usually not as thick and tacky as the thickening and lenghtening types. This type of mascara has the most natural appearance.

Mascara Wands:

(Image from Robert Jones, Looking Younger)

The mascara wand is just as important as the mascara formulation. The different shapes and sizes of the bristles on the various wands creates different effects. Mascara tubes come with a built in wand, normally paired and suited to go with its furmulation. However when you are not satisfied with the built in wand, you can buy disposable wands from most cosmetic counters, such as MAC.

  • A wand with long, fat, full, thick, dense bristles will help thicken and lengthen your lashes.
  • A wand with short, dense spiralled bristles helps define your lashes. It is less dense as the full thick fat wand, which means it takes less product and allows you to coat each lash with a thin coat from root to tip.
  • Bristles tapering from short at the tip to longer in the middle defines, thickens and lengthens lashes. It enables you to perform detailed defining work with the tip, while giving volume and length from the thicker middle.
  • A wand with widely spaced rubber bristles defines and separates, giving a thin even coat on each lash.
  • A wand shaped like a comb defines and separates each lash. It provides a thin coat of product while combing and separating each lash. This particular wand practically elimminates clumping and can also prevent lashes from sticking together.
  • There are also combination wands available.

Applying Mascara

(Image from Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual)

  1. Start by curling your eyelashes using a crimp style curler. This opens up the eye and gives you a big eyed youthful bambi look. Never use this tool on mascaraed lashes as it will break the hair. If you are using a heated curler, use it after you've applied your mascara as the heated mascara sets the curl in place. If you are not a huge fan of eyelash curling, you can use your fingers to push the hair upwards after you have applied mascara, just before it is dry.
  2. Roll your mascara wand in the tube, then pull it out. Never pump your mascara wand into the tube as this creates air bubbles inside the tube, which in turn dries out the mascara and will have a clumping effect. Now the next part is quite important to avoid clumping, but it is a waist of product. You have to weigh the product wastage against perfect clump free lashes, and decide for yourself which is more important. After the wand is pulled out of the tube, gently roll/wipe the wand on paper towel to remove excess product. Remember to also dab the tip of the wand. Most of the time it is the excess product clumping in your lashes.
  3. Apply your first coat of mascara starting as close to the base of the lash as possible. Some prefer a outwards and upwards sweep, whereas others prefer side to side wiggling followed by an upward and outward sweep. Just as long as you coat each and every hair from the outer to the inner corner from the base to the tip.
  4. Separate the lashes with your wand as you go along by combing through them. Don't worry. You won't remove too much product. The idea is to layer it on for a fuller effect. When clumping has occurred, use a clean eyelash comb to comb through the lashes. This will remove the clump while at the same time separating them. This could become a bit messy.
  5. Do the same with as many layers as desired, waiting between each layer till almost dry. In my experience applying product over already dry mascara can have a clumping effect. Dried clumps can be combed out, but take care not to pull out hair. Another trick to remove dried mascara clumps is to dab your forefinger into a little Vaseline. Rub your thumb and forefinger together to spread the Vaseline. Now lightly place your thumb and forefinger over the clump and gently pull. The greasiness of the vaseline helps remove the product without pulling hair.
  6. If you smudged the mascara, it is easiest to remove when dry. Wet mascara tend to smear, making it more difficult to get rid of. After the smudge has dried, use a Q-tip to gently roll and sweep the product off of your skin. It should come off easily without leaving any marks behind. For a stubborn smudge, dab your Q-tip in makeup remover.
  7. I always do my lower lashes, but some people prefer not to. When applying mascara to the lower lashes, as with the top, take care to apply from corner to corner, covering each hair.

Final words on mascara

Mascara is not an 'one product/formulation/brand fits all' . What works for me might not work for you. It all depends on what type of lashes you have and your desired end result. I for instance have medium length lashes, but I want thick full long lashes. The thicker fuller and longer the better. I am a huge MAC Cosmetics fan. But for some reason am not too crazy about their mascaras. Although their Zoom Lash mascara is not too bad, and I absolutely can not live without the Haute & Naughty Lash. Another one of my favourite mascaras is Max Factor's False Lash Effect Fusion.  I love the wand, formulation and effect.

(Image from http://www.maxfactor.co.za/)

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(Image: http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/shaded/152/10182/Haute-Naughty-Lash/index.tmpl)

There are hundreds of brands out there, each with their own formulations, combinations and wands. My advice when choosing mascara: First decide on the look you want, then go to your favourite cosmetic counter and try them all out. Please make sure to use a disposable wand, as mascara is one of the top causes of eye infections.

Play around with different formulations and wands and have fun with your lushes lashes!

xoxo

Period Makeup: 1950′s

The start of the timeless ‘Pinup Look’.

After the conservative years of WWII came to an end and the cosmetics industry caught back up with demand, makeup styles took the biggest turn seen to date.  Along with bright coloured kitchen appliances, came bright and shapely makeup, with well defines eyebrows.

Foundation/Powder:

The base for the 50′s style makeup was a foundation cream, creating pale but perfectly flawless porcelain skin, almost mask-like complexion which was topped off with natural skin colour powder to set it.

Eyes:

tumblr_mkymza1Bj01rvsnygo1_500The eyebrows were mostly thicker in the inner corner and then tapered out to a clean point, but did vary in style.  Much like we do today.  The inner corner could be rounded or squared.  The accent could be a straight line or pointed to a peak.  A gradual rounded eyebrow was very popular, as was straight.  It was customary to take what you had, tweeze it to a clean line and then use a pencil to darken in and possibly thicken.  The winged/cat eyeliner was a very important part of the decades makeup look, and that too had many variations, from very defined/striking to soft and subtle.  One of the main reasons for the tick was to mimic extra eye lashes at the outer corner of the eye.  The various products on the market included pencil, liquid and gel eyeliner.  By changing the length, thickness, flip/wing/tick and colour, the appearance of the eye and the rest of the makeup changes to accommodate different looks for different occasions.  They mostly used three basic eye shadow combinations:

  • A lighter neutral on lid up to the crease/socket, and white above the socket to the brow.
  • White on the lid, brown/terracotta in the crease, and white under the brow.
  • Turquoise, green or blue on the lid, brown/terracotta in the crease/socket, and white under the brow.

False lashes were sometimes placed on top, with lots of mascara.

Cheeks:

Use a warm bronzer below the cheek and on the lower part of the apple of the cheek, to add contouring.  The apples were dusted with a pink blusher, and blended with the contouring to create a well contoured cheekbone with flush, healthy sun-kissed glow.

A soft beauty mark can be added using an eye pencil.  This was inspired by Marilyn Monroe.

Lips:

UntitledLip shapes, for the average lady, followed the basic shape of the Untitlednatural mouth.  In Hollywood, they began to customise it. They began to taper the fall from the peak to the outer corner for a droop that almost mimicked a pleasant, innocent smile. Sultry movie stars like Marilyn Monroe and Sylvia Lopez were over-drawing their top lip for a fuller look.  Lip colours varied from bright red to orange red.

 

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 The Pin Up done today:

I think the 2 celebrities coming to mind first when thinking of the pin up look would be Katy Perry, Taylor Swift & Christina Aguilera.  But it is not just them.  You see this at basically every red carpet event and fashion show…or at least a variation thereof.

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My interpretation of the pinup look:

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 (All images: Google Images)

 

Choosing eyeshadow

One of the most common questions I get asked almost on a weekly basis is:

“How do I choose the correct shade of eyeshadow to compliment my eye colour?”

Well, It’s actually not as complicated as you might think.

The most important thing when choosing eyeshadow & liner is your own eye colour.  You want to select shades that will bring out the natural colour of your eye.  You want your eye colour to pop and stand out, not for your eyeshadow to compete with your natural eye colour.

The 3 basic eye colours, in varying shades, are Blue, Green and Brown.  There are also 2 other colours, which are Hazel and Grey.  Hazel eyes is a combination of Green & Blue or Green & Brown.  Grey eyes is a very pale shade of either Blue or Green.

eyes

(ok, so all these eyes put together looks a bit freaky & scary)

Lots of people think/assume wrongly that choosing the same eyeshadow shade as your eye colour will bring out your eye colour.  This is not true.  Wearing the same shade of clothes sometimes do that, especially for blue and green eyes, but not eyeshadow.  Wearing the same colour distracts/takes away from the eyeshadow colour and eye colour and gives a dull nondescript tone of ‘nothingness’.

First off, lets start with the colour wheel:

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The rule of thumb is this: to best compliment your eye colour, choose the colour closest to your eye colour on the colour wheel. The exact opposite colour on the wheel will be your best complimenting colour.  For example, for blue eyes, choose a warm shade of brown or golden shades.  For green eyes coppery, warm browns or purple will make the green of your eyes look brighter and much more green.  Whenever you pair two oposite colours, they intensify each other.

Blue Eyes:

As already mentioned, stay far away from blue eyeshadow. If you want you eyes to pop and look mesmerising  try earth-tones such as warm browns and golden, copper, golden khaki, rich raisin, browns with a slight purple base, taupe, slate coloured greys and charcoal. If you want to have a little fun outside of the earth-tones, try a rose colored eyeshadow. The coolness from the pink/purple eyeshadow will be a really nice contrast to your blue eyes.

Copperplate

Copperplate

Cranberry

Cranberry

Sable

Sable

Satin Taupe

Satin Taupe

Sketch

Sketch

Contrast

Contrast

Amber Lights

Amber Lights

Bronze

Bronze

All That Glitter

All That Glitter

Romp

Romp

Woodwinked

Woodwinked

Green Eyes:

Various shades of purple is the best colour for your green eyes. The contrast in color to your eyes will make them pop and seem more dramatic. If you want your eyes to stand out but look more natural, you may want to try warmer mocha brown shades or warm colors with slight orange or orange undertones. Basic eyeshadow colors for green eyes would be earth tones with slight hints of coppery bronze, taupe colors, mocha browns, deep burgundy and lavender/violet purple shades. Charcoal is also a great colour for you.

Parfait Amour

Parfait Amour

Satin Taupe

Satin Taupe

Nocturnelle

Nocturnelle

Embark

Embark

Sumptuous Olive

Sumptuous Olive

Smut

Smut

Sable

Sable

Woodwinked

Woodwinked

Sattelite Dreams

Sattelite Dreams

Sketch

Sketch

Club

Club

Brown Eyes

Brown eyes are the most versatile.  You can basically experiment with a variety of colours and still enhance your natural eye colour.  You can basically use any colour, as long as it does not make your eye look murky and dull.  Play around with purple, green, navy, blue, gold, silver, copper, brown, mahogany, deep espresso, pewter, deep green,taupe, navy,  etc.  You will not be competing with your natural eye colour.

Knight Divine

Knight Divine

Shimmer Moss

Shimmer Moss

Woodwinded

Woodwinded

Zonde Bleu

Zonke Bleu

Swimming

Swimming

Sattelite Dreams

Sattelite Dreams

Moons Reflection

Moons Reflection

Iris Mist

Iris Mist

Humid

Humid

Fresh Water

Fresh Water

Parfait Amour

Parfait Amour

Hazel Eyes:

Hazel eyes are not in a single colour. Hazel eyes are a mixture of colours, either green brown or green blue.  Choose the eye colour you want to enhance and refer to the corresponding colour category   If you have green-brown hazel eyes (like myself), you can choose colours from the green or brown category.

Grey Eyes:

This eye colour is basically a very bale blue or pale green, however the iris is surrounded by a dark ring.  Surrounding the eye colour with rich, deep eyeshadow and eyeliner will make your eye pop and glow. Choose colours from the corresponding category to enhance/bring out the blue or green in your eyes.

Choosing a combination of monochromatic colours (the two colours on either side of your eye colour) will also ‘compliment’ your eye colour.

My last tim for applying eyeshadow…play around with colour.  Never use just a single colour on your eye.  The key is to use complimenting colours that work well together and blend then to form a ‘new’ colour.  A single shade appears flat.  By combining 2 or more colours you create depth.  Even the loved Smokey Eye, when done beautifully & perfect, consists of a couple of monochromatic colours.

Take a look at all these eyes.  All of the makeup consists of multi colours perfectly blended.

Take a look at all these eyes. All of the makeup consists of multi colours perfectly blended.

Have fun playing around with colour.  Don’t be scared.  If you don’t like it, start over.  One last tip…for colours too vibrant or bright for your liking, add a little brown or black and blend well.  This will ‘dull out’ the colour.
(All Images: Google Images, Info: Looking younger by Robert Jones)

 

1920′s Makeup

In keeping with my excitement to go and watch Great Gatsby, I thought it would be fun to delve into period makeup looks, starting with the 1920′s.

period makeup

1920′s Makeup & Beauty

(Image: Google Images)

(Image: Google Images)

The 1920’s makeup look can be described as Heavy.  This new heavy makeup look was a reaction to the demure Edwardian era.  Women were increasingly driven by marketing through cinema and advertising. The inventions of the 1910s mascara, lipstick, eye-shadows, pan-sticks (thick and heavy cream foundation in stick-form…MaxFactor has a Pan Stick foundation), powder compacts etc. by leading innovators such as Max Factor, Maurice Levy and TL Williams, the founder of Maybelline, were now to be found on dressing tables and women’s handbags all over the developed world.  The attitudes towards make up and women wearing makeup made a dramatic switch.   Before now, it was not really socially “proper” for young girls/ladies to wear makeup.  If makeup was worn at all it was muted in colour and generally hidden away.

Part of the massive change in the entire makeup industry was due to the removal of harmful chemicals such as mercury, lead and sulphur from most products.

Eyes:

  • Eyebrows were very high, thin and arched, usually drawn in pencil. Women often shaved their eyebrows to make it easier to draw in the ‘fashionable fakes’.
  • Eye makeup was dark and dramatic, the eyelids were covered with a dark eye shadow such as grey or green, this was applied liberally and heavily.  In today’s terms it would look smoky.
  • Kohl was then a mixture of soot, lead and goose fat and was applied all around the eye and smudged outwards.
  • Focus were placed on defining the inner eye corner, rather than the outer corner, as we do today.
  • The eyes normally had a more downward/panda look.
  • Mascara was also applied, but it came in block form…it had to be heated up and applied with a stick or wand.   Mascara in tubes as we know today was not invented until the 1950’s.
  • False eyelashes were also popular in the ’20’s.
  • To apply, first start by applying foundation/concealer over the eyelids as a base for the eye shadow.
  • Apply a grey or any dark shadow all over your eyelid and blend slightly upwards into the crease.
  • Draw a line in pencil eyeliner along the top and bottom lashes.
  • Smudge it outwards all around your eye, for a wider eyed, more dramatic effect, make sure you smudge the line out further at the bottom and top outer corners of your eye.
  • Apply mascara liberally to the top and bottom lashes.
  • If you are using false lashes, apply them to your top lashes only.
  • Apply powder in a natural colour that best matches your skin tone, use a large round brush or a sponge.  The powder can be caked on, but should not look cakey.

Foundation & Face Powder:

  • Prior to the 1920’s face powder had been very pale and pasty, but with the changes in social attitudes it was now more socially acceptable to be outdoors, and have a ‘natural tan’.
  • Colours were now much more natural than the previous muted ivories and pale whites that were available.
  • The desired completion was still a pale look, but a creamier, more perfect porcelain look than the previous over the top cakey applications.  A foundation 1-3 shades paler than your skin natural skin tone can be used to achieve this.
  • Apply powder in a natural colour that best matches your skin tone, use a large round brush or a sponge.  The powder can be caked on, but should not look cakey.

Blusher/Rouge

  • Blusher was known as rouge, and came in many forms i.e.  powders, creams, liquids.
  • Powder form eventually became the most popular.  It was applied to the face with a brush but not as blended. A visible ‘circle’ was left giving a doll like appearance.
  • By the middle of the 1920’s orange was the most popular colour for rouge.

Lips:

  • Lips were an incredibly important part of the makeup, the key to the look.
  • Many women would line their lips in liquid rouge to give a more dramatic effect.
  • A deep dark oxblood/plum red colour lipstick was really the only colour that was available, it came in a few different shades and was applied to the upper lip and taken slightly above the natural lip line, and the same was done with the bottom lip.
  • In the early 20’s the lips were not coloured right into the corners of the mouth, instead the colour stopped quite dramatically.
    Clarabow
  • In the later 20’s lips were coloured right into the corners of the mouth and the colour on the top lip was taken above the lip line either side of the cupids bow and the middle was left uncoloured, giving the look that the lip was kind of split in half.
  • This ‘Bow Lip’ shape was named after Clara Bow, an actress of the times.
  • To achieve this, line the lips in a colour that is close to the lipstick, not your lip colour. Apply lipstick, but don’t apply colour near the corners of your mouth.
  • Take the colour past your natural upper lip line, over emphasise the tips of your cupids bow, but leave the middle. Add colour all over the lips.

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(Images: Google Images)

 

Angelique’s Knorhoek wedding.

A couple of weeks ago I did makeup for a beautiful strawberry blonde bride and her ‘entourage’ of 2 bridesmaids, flower girl, mother-of-the-bride as well as grandmother-of-the-bride.

She’s booked out the entire Knorhoek Guest House for her wedding party.  We totally took over the honeymoon suite and turned it into a ‘beauty parlour’ with hair dryers, brushes, makeup, you name it, all over the place.  Luckily the Knorhoek staff are well trained and probably used to this, as they came in to clean up right after the bride left for ‘THE BIG EVENT’.

Angelique is the sweetest girl with nerves of steel.  Her mother was completely stressed out while the bride calm and composed… until 1 hour before the service! Nerves took over…both excitement and stress of it all finally happening.

She looked absolutely gorgeous…real life fairy princess.

Her wedding colours were white & purple, which I absolutely loved, seeing that purple is one of my favourite colours.

tumblr_mlagvc6xPo1snd0yjo2_r1_1280 tumblr_mlafvf0Uzp1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlafz1ddv11snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlagzgW3LU1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlaga2eVmE1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlag3cSTxF1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlag49rFFk1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlagxeeoNz1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlagi1U9lF1snd0yjo1_1280 tumblr_mlafdnkono1snd0yjo1_1280

I so enjoyed being part of her big fairy tail day.

Jess & JP’s special day.

Jessica & JP got married on the 30′th April 2013 at Knorhoek, Stellenbosch.

Building up to her big day, we’ve only had email correspondence, as Jess lives in Jo’burg, which means we did not even do a trial. Very daring and courageous of Jess.

Throughout all our correspondence I just knew I was going to absolutely love her. She’s young, funky, spunky and sounded outrageously crazy…in a good way of course.

I had such a great time doing her, her mom & 2 bridesmaids makeup.  I love being part of someone’s special day & contribute to their ‘fairy princess’ moment.

Jess & JP, hope you’ll be happy & in love for EVER.

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Makeup: Adele, Makeover Mayhem

Photographer: Grethe Rosseaux Photography